The Brits are onto a good thing when they flee British winters for the Algarve. Last year, during the day after day, week after week of nonstop rain, I made a promise to myself that I would ditch the umbrella and schedule a retreat to a sunny place in 2025. As luck would have it, a gift arrived in an email from Ryan and Eric: “We are going to Tavira. Want to come with us?

Tavira is a small coastal town on the southeastern edge of Portugal, less than 30 minutes drive from the Spanish border.

The Phoenicians set up shop here in the 8th century BC, and it’s been occupied in one way or another since then. The Roman military leader Pompey the Great conducted anti-pirate campaigns in the area. No doubt his troops enjoyed the local seafood and mild weather just like we do today. As Roman control faded, Islamic invaders arrived from North Africa. Then came the Reconquista, and Christians were back in charge of defending the seacoast against corsairs*, pirates, and any other invaders. Today’s invaders are tourists and retirees, forming the economic lifeblood of the southern coast of Portugal.

*Corsairs were swift ships manned by pirates who operated with permission from a government, usually from North Africa.

February was the perfect time to visit, with clear, chilly nights and mild, sunny days. The Gilão River runs through the middle of Tavira, and it’s lined with plentiful outdoor cafes just right for basking in the sun. We especially enjoyed The Black Anchor, an Irish-owned pub, with plenty of British retirees dropping by for a pint of Guinness. An exploratory drive eastward took us to the Fortress of Cacela with its tiny village of whitewashed cottages, then onward to the town of Castro Marim, almost in Spain. Roman, Moorish, and Reconquista history is rich here. It’s reflected in the ancient fortress walls, the buildings whitewashed in North African style, and Moorish architectural influence.

After three days, I returned home, but this is a charming and interesting part of the world that merits more exploration. Thank you, Ryan and Eric, for including me in your adventures!

A Glad Event for Porto Kind

The ground floor of my building is occupied by a very special chocolate producer. Glad Bean to Bar Chocolates is a local company that sources cacao beans from Africa and Central and South America. They process them to their exact specifications to create unusually pure chocolate bars, hot chocolate, nibs, and addictive cookies. In February, I partnered with Glad to host another Porto Kind event to benefit the Associação para o Planeamento da Família (Portugal Association for Family Planning).

Glad provides chocolate tasting sessions similar to a wine tasting. It was fascinating to taste the differences in chocolates from different origins. Did you know that the caffeine in chocolate is different than the caffeine in coffee? Coffee will give you a short energy burst and then drop off, whereas the caffeine in tea and chocolate builds more slowly and lasts longer. Our lively attendees returned home loaded with chocolate bars and cookies, much to the benefit of Glad and the APF.

Parabens (Congratulations) to My Friend Roman

I met Roman when he was a server at Esquires Coffee. Like me, he is an immigrant to Portugal. He moved here from Bangladesh with his wife, daughter, and son. He worked and saved with the dream of owning his own coffee house, and now it is literally a dream come true. I was so honored when he invited me to the pre-opening party. Though I could not attend, I was the first customer through the door the next day. It was a Sunday, and his family was there with him. While I was devouring a delicious breakfast, his parents called from Bangladesh. “I bet they are really proud of you,” I said. “Yes, they are very happy, and my mother-in-law is, too.” His big smile told the story.

You can visit Roman and enjoy great coffee, chai, and food at House of Coffee Porto.

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Cover photo: In the Fortress of Cacela, gazing over the water toward North Africa. A thousand years ago, there may have been a Moor or Berber standing here, alert for approaching pirates or invaders.

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