Discovering a Joyous Celebration of Everyday Porto

I’m well into my third year living in Porto (!) and there are still wonderful surprises to discover. One day I meandered onto a narrow, nondescript street that begins at the top of the hill near the old city wall. As I descended steep stairs, the sight of cheerfully painted walls on the old homes began to appear. The closer I got, the more amazing they were.

MrDheo street artist in Porto Portugal
Descending the steep street, the painted walls begin to reveal themselves. Vila Nova de Gaia, across the Douro, appears in the background.
Which is painted and which is real?
I call this lady Dona Helena, after Dona Helena at Esquires Coffee, who gives me a hug whenever we meet, and cooks delicious breakfasts. “Dona” is a word used to indicate respect for the person it refers to, normally someone senior in age.
A small, abandoned home is being renovated. The street is too narrow and steep for machinery, so excavation of accumulated rock and debris from within must be removed manually, one bucket at a time. Then the workers carry it up the steep stairs to the disposal point.

This fantastic street art is by Mr.Dheo

It’s my ambition to meet this local artist who uses photorealistic styles to create paintings that express the soul of Portugal, and Porto in particular. His work often has a social theme. There is a strong empathy in his paintings, whether they are serious topics like COVID, the war in Ukraine, or more lighthearted subjects. His work can be seen in major cities around the world, but I’m grateful to see it in his hometown. Enjoy more at his website or on Instagram.

Winter in Porto

It’s been many years since I lived in the Midwest US, but memories of those winters have never left me. My ears and fingertips still hurt from frostbite gained during bitter nights schooling horses in cold Iowa and Nebraska barns, where the chill index was often below zero F (-13C). I giggle when I can stroll down the street in January with only a light sweater for warmth. Porto winters almost never reach the freezing point. In fact, there’s not been a single freeze in my three winters here. It can be rainy and gloomy for days on end, but we get sunny breaks, and the days are usually in the 50s or low 60s F. This year, January was quite nice, with lots of sun, and February is off to a mild start – unlike last year, when we had weeks and weeks of rain.

I live across the street from the big Porto New Year Celebration on Praça General Humberto Delgado. The city does a great job of cleaning up, but it’s fun to see confetti stragglers among the white cobblestones the next day.
My friend Della cooked up a fantastic Southern New Year’s Day meal, complete with black-eyed peas and greens, plus roast beef and mashed potatoes and muffins and lemon pound cake. All enjoyed in the warm company of good friends. Thank you again, Della!
A beautiful January afternoon makes it easy to meet friends under the olive tree at Aduela for coffee or wine.
People read books here! On the train, on the bus, or on a bench on a nice winter day, with an espresso. There are bookstores everywhere, though sadly, my beloved Livraria Latina has been closed due to tourism cancer. The rent became too high.
Angela and João (standing) own the fantastic restaurant, Piccolo Camafeu. In January they issued a special invitation to attend a dinner prepared by Chef Angela and served by João. About a dozen of us gathered around a beautifully set table to enjoy amazing food and bright conversation.
Many of you have asked about my adopted street orphans, Uma and Tigo. At ten months, they are like teenage cats, sneering at the rules when my back is turned. But they are great fun and I’m glad I adopted them.


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8 responses to “Discovering a Joyous Celebration of Everyday Porto”

  1. cbrown19dfc34327f Avatar
    cbrown19dfc34327f

    So love following you. Maybe soon I can come and visit you. Be glad that you are there and not here with all the craziness going on trying to save our country. Your kitties remind me of Ashton’s kitty, Biscuits. He is black and loves the dishwasher too. Cannot tell you how many times he gets closed up in there because you can’t see him. Sending hugs and please kept us in your prayers. ❤️

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    1. Hey, Chris, thank you for the comment. There are about 1200 +/- people from the US living in Porto, and we are all very grateful to be here. Hope Biscuits never goes through the rinse & shine cycle. 🙂 Come visit, you’ll love the creative vibes here.

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      1. cbrown19dfc34327f Avatar
        cbrown19dfc34327f

        There probably will be a lot more to move there because of what is going on here. Pretty sad and scary. So glad that you have found your happy place!!!❤️

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      2. cbrown19dfc34327f Avatar
        cbrown19dfc34327f

        There probably will be a lot more to move there because of what is going on here. Pretty sad and scary. So glad that you have found your happy place!!!❤️

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      3. Hi Chris, you are right. The relocation service that helped me navigate the Portuguese immigration process is swamped with clients. I personally know of at least 3 people who are in the process of moving here. It would be interesting to know what the emigration trendline in the US is.

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  2. Love seeing your charmed life in Portugal! Looks amazing.

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    1. Kelly, thank you! I think of you and Javier so often. That sporty RLM rain coat comes in handy! Hope you come visit someday, and we’ll climb The Clerigues Tower together!

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      1. we would love that!

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