Boas Festas!

Holiday Time in Porto

The lights are on, the music is playing, and the stench aroma of bacalhau permeates every food store and flavors the streets. Compared to the US, Christmas is comfortably understated here. According to the Portugal News, the average spend for Christmas time last year was around €239 (about $263), and this year projections are for a slight decrease due to economic concerns.

Wine and chocolate are among the most popular gifts, thus settling any questions about why I moved to Portugal.

Bacalhau is dried, salted cod. Once consumed primarily by the poorer population, it is now an institution, especially for major holidays. There are many ways to prepare it. Two of my favorites are fritters, and a kind of bacalhau/potato casserole.
Chestnuts really do roast on an open fire in Porto. You can pick up a hand-warming bag on street corners, or here at Trindade station.

My low-key plans for my first Christmas in Porto include baking cookies to take to the Bombeiros (firefighters) across the street, including special ones for Porto, the best firehouse dog in Portugal. I’ll share time with friends, listen to lots of music (hooray, I finally have my Sonos speakers with me!), and take some long walks.

On Saturday, I attended a beautiful baroque Christmas concert at the world-famous Casa da Musica. It was a packed house, and I’ll go again next year. The acoustics are outstanding, and the architecture is something one must experience to appreciate.

Joy…

What a joy to have my oldest niece and her family here at Thanksgiving time! We made the most of the afternoon, including a stroll down Santa Catarina and dinner at Honest Greens. I’m going to miss you all in NYC this year. Instead, I will eat cinnamon rolls from OGI Bakery and then walk down to the ocean where I’ll stand on the tallest boulder and wave hello, so get your binoculars out and look for me. 🙂

Hello to Ella and Alma, my two favorite nieces in the whole wide universe! Sarah and Tomer, come for a longer stay, there’s so much more to see!

…And Remembering

I’ve been out of sorts this past week. Nothing works right. I’m cranky. I’m angry. December 13 was the one-year anniversary of the passing of my sister-in-law, Setsuko. Loss and pain are the price of loving, and we are much the better for it, but that doesn’t make it any easier. I’m sure most of you know the feeling. Saudade* kicks in. And gratefulness because Prof. G is right: life is so rich.

*Saudade is a unique Portuguese word that is hard to translate. The Porto Editora dictionary describes it as
-Feeling of hurt, nostalgia and incompleteness, caused by the absence, disappearance, distance or deprivation of people, times, places or things to which one has been affectively and dutifully connected and that one would like to have in mind again

-Affectionate remembrance of something or someone absent

-Greetings to an absent person; Memories

Setsuko Fujita Patton

Postscript

Thank you all for the wonderful responses to my last post, Letting Go. Martin chatted me last week to let me know how much they appreciated everything, and they have already given items to a family in great need of furnishings. How much better to let things go to a new life, rather than letting it all sit in storage.

May Your Days (and Nights) Be Merry and Bright. Feliz Natal!

The Porto tree with the lights in the reflecting pool, in front of the Câmara Municipal on the Praça do General Humberto Delgado, and as seen from my balcony.

Feature image: The Bolhao Market is all dressed up for the holidays.


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2 responses to “Boas Festas!”

  1. Thank you for that beautiful beautiful commentary on grief and loss. I’m going to try to print it out and post it and hold it close to my heart because it does a beautiful job of putting into words what I simply cannot and what I find I live too much of the time.
    I am so incredibly sorry about your sister-in-law. I feel like I’ve really lost the fluidity of connection with what’s going on in your world with your parents your brother, his wife and hand hand.
    Trying to hold onto what matters here and not get sucked away by the mundane. I think I will come up on the hill and get my binoculars out and look East and North towards Porto.
    I love how you are living your life. If it were not for my grandchildren, I might be doing something differently than where I am. Even then I must rethink.
    I miss you friend and it is not just the burnt bacon snd coffee. ❤️🎄

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    1. Kathy, what a lovely note. I believe that like particle entanglement, there must also be some sort of emotional and spiritual entanglement that connects people, places and things forever. Having friends you can connect with no matter the distance and time is a great gift. I’ll wave to you from the boulders, but the view will be better once you get here – whenever. 🙂

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